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EOS R3 Customizing AF settings – detailed settings

The EOS R3 has an autofocus system that’s different to the R5 and R6. It also allows you to customize buttons to activate autofocus features. The most common customization is commonly called back-button focus. This allows the photographer to separate the release of the shutter from the activating the autofocus. The thinking behind this is to give the photographer more control over when to start and stop the camera from attempting to acquire focus. To do this, Custom Functions 4 menu has the customize buttons option and setting the shutter button half-press to Metering start only stop this button from activating the focus function. Then setting the AF-ON button to Metering and AF start will enable that button to perform AF.

However, the R3 allows you to do a lot more. Pressing the INFO button will get you to another screen where specific AF features can be set. The R5/R6 also has this ability, but the settings are much more limited and explained more clearly. There isn’t any documentation about this detail screen in the current R3 Advanced User Guide.

On this screen, the AF settings you can affect are on the right. For example, you can set AF Operation to Servo or One-Shot. But to enable that, you then have to click on the left so there’s a tick against that setting. This will override any AF setting you might have. But if you don’t enable that function, it will use whatever setting you have set in the camera. On the R5/R6, it’s explicitly labelled “Maintain the current setting”.

So in this screen, the AF area is whatever has been set using the menu system. However, if it was enabled, the camera would use the large AF area.

Note: For Eye detect to be enabled, Subject tracking must also be enabled. Having a tick against Eye detect alone will not enable it unless Subject tracking is enabled. The Eye detect setting should really be greyed-out when Subject tracking is off.

And, if you have a R5 / R6 – this is a great way to set up eye detect https://youtu.be/fWpuF6tGVTc

How to calibrate MacBook Pro Liquid Retina XDR (MiniLED) Displays with i1Display

There’s no point getting one of the new MacBook Pro with the Liquid Retina XDR (MiniLED) Displays if it’s not calibrated accurately. The good news is that out of the box, these displays are very accurate. The default profile is the P3 gamut capable of displaying HDR content to 1600 nits (brightness).

For my photography workflow, I need the much narrower sRGB colorspace at around 160 cdm (luminance). The nice thing about the display settings control panel in Monterey is the luminance is fixed so you can’t accidentally bump the brightness key.

Here is a good discussion on what’s changed with these displays and Monterey OS and a good run through on Youtube:

The delta-E on my display was a very good 0.8

Migrating to a new MacBook Pro 16 inch M1

After the excitement of getting a new Macbook, the practical issues of moving all the applications, data and settings from an old Macbook is largely undocumented. Here’s what I did:

  • The old Intel-powered Macbook Pro was updated to Monterey 12.0.1
  • The new M1 Macbook Pro had 12.0 and needed to be updated. I created a temporary account and then used that to update it to 12.0.1 so the versions of the two Macs were identical
  • Started the Migration Assistant app on both devices after connecting the two with a Thunderbolt 3 cable
  • It took less than 15 minutes to transfer 200GB of data and the new MacBook was ready
  • Before logging into the new Mac, sign out of a few licensed apps so they can be activated on the new one…
  • Adobe Creative Cloud, Microsoft Office, Photomechanic, PDF Expert
  • Now login to the new Mac and re-authenticate into iCloud as required
  • If you have apps that require extensions like Softraid and Rogue Amoeba, you’ll need to change the Security Policy to allow third party extensions to run. Follow the instructions after restarting the Mac while holding down the Touch-ID button
  • Now re-login to the new Mac and login to the apps that you logged out of on the old Mac

I found an issue with the Spotlight index on mail messages. I had to disable and re-enable the index to get it all working.

Enjoy your new Mac!

Noisy and nosey Netgear routers

If you run your own DNS server like pihole, you can see in the logs that Netgear routers wants to contact a couple of Netgear servers hundreds of times a day.

Netgear has been silent on why they need to do this in public forums. Pihole has a pretty simple way to block this request using per-client blocking.

Tips on switching NBN ISP if you have a FTTP Gigabit plan

It is not as simple as just ordering a new plan. While the NBN supplied termination device (NTD) has four data ports, UNI-D 1-4, and theoretically can have four separate ISPs providing simultaneous services, this doesn’t work if one of the services is at gigabit speed, such as a 1000/50 plan.

NBN won’t allow you to order two gigabit services, so if you currently have a gigabit service and want to switch to another ISP, you have three options. Downgrade your existing service to something not faster than a 100mbps; order a new service not faster than 100mbps, and then upgrade that after the initial gigabit service is disconnected; or “churn” by replacing, rather than adding, your existing gigabit service.

If you choose the first or second option, you will have more than one service with one being gigabit. This is a problem. If you try to have more than one service active, by connecting it to a router or computer, NBN will terminate one of the connections and prevent the disconnected service from connecting. In my situation, I actually had 3 services connected. Two 100/20 and one gigabit. I couldn’t get multiple services working concurrently if one of them was the gigabit plan. NBN just won’t allow it. Practically, this means that it’s impossible to test and compare ISPs concurrently if one of them is at gigabit speed.